Hello all,
I am putting my G reg GTI back together.
It has been to a body shop that cut the wires to the door so that they could take it off
and they cut the loom down the passenger side just before the fuel pump connections.
its been tricky putting it back together as I did not take it apart...
I re-fitted the dash, and spliced in a new section of loom for the rear of the car - checking plugs / cable colours matched etc.
I put a new battery on - and started to check things - sidelights worked and when the ign was put on - the dip dim worked. all the lights worked - the wipers
all bar the horn and then when I flashed the main beam- there was a pop sound.
now - I have no power to any thing
I can turn the ign key and the ignition & oil light comes on - but nothing else works..
I have checked the four big fuses by the battery and I have pulled out all the fuse box fuses and checked that they are intact.
does anyone have an idea of what to look at next?
Pulling my hair out as its been a long time to get to this point...
any help gratefully received
Shaun
Rover metro electrically dead
Re: Rover metro electrically dead
Check fusebox fuses, I would also be looking for a short circuit, ie a live to ground,
headlight wires are std lucas, blue/white is main beam, blue/red is dipped,
you can disconnect the dim-dip resister behind rh front wheel dirtshield,
that stops the dim-dip but doesn't effect the normal operation of the lights,
dim-dip is not a legal requirement, which is why cars dont have it any more.
Dont forget rear light connections as well for short circuits.
headlight wires are std lucas, blue/white is main beam, blue/red is dipped,
you can disconnect the dim-dip resister behind rh front wheel dirtshield,
that stops the dim-dip but doesn't effect the normal operation of the lights,
dim-dip is not a legal requirement, which is why cars dont have it any more.
Dont forget rear light connections as well for short circuits.
Re: Rover metro electrically dead
thanks for the reply.
my metro had spotlights which were triggered via the main beam light on the dash - this powered a switch below the rear screen heater- the this went to a relay located near the battery.
i have disconnected this.
am worried may have messed up the dash clocks...
I plan to look at it at the weekend but not sure where to start
I thought that the horn / main beam malfunctioning would have blown a fuse - I checked the other night and they all seem OK - I visually checked the bit of wire between the blades.
my metro had spotlights which were triggered via the main beam light on the dash - this powered a switch below the rear screen heater- the this went to a relay located near the battery.
i have disconnected this.
am worried may have messed up the dash clocks...
I plan to look at it at the weekend but not sure where to start
I thought that the horn / main beam malfunctioning would have blown a fuse - I checked the other night and they all seem OK - I visually checked the bit of wire between the blades.